Showing posts with label fall in france. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fall in france. Show all posts

Sunday, September 15, 2013

A kiss of fall



There is the unmistakable end of season feeling in the air. The swallows have flown away, the grains on the hillside have been harvested leaving a golden stubble, a nip is in the air and soft breezes blow puffy white clouds around overhead. This is one of my favorite times of any year; this particular year it's one of my busiest as well!


We came back from vacation and hit the ground running. A few days of bright sun and sweltering temperatures soon gave way to chilly mornings and early evenings. We ordered fuel and scheduled our annual firewood delivery.


Our dear clients, and now friends, Wolfgang and Sabine from Mannheim, Germany, stopped over on their way back home from their annual three week vacation in Brittany. We have watched their children, Victoria and Roderick, grow up over the last several years. The family stays at the beach up until the last Saturday before the opening of school and spends one night at Maison Conti before driving back home on Sunday, cutting it all very close. They have developed this yearly routine which also includes the purchase of an enormous amount of fresh Breton fish which they drive to our home and share with us on the terrace for a huge feast. This year is was 9 oysters apiece, sardines on the grill, a huge crab for everyone. It spells the end of summer for all concerned. And what a great way to kiss it goodbye.


I came back from Slovenia very invigorated, and have tried to keep that feeling alive, although it is more difficult in the routine of daily work-a-day life. When possible we've been taking slightly more ambitious walks down the hill and through the fields and up the hill again. The circuit takes almost an hour.


It is very pleasant, especially this little portion of woods which is actually a narrow strip of trees separating two large corn fields. It's a kind of traditional bocage. Rick, who is reading The Discovery of France, tells me that farmers up until the early part of the twentieth century had secret tunnels like these to disappear into without a trace. Their entrances were elaborately woven branches which were impossible to detect by outsiders.



Last week we had an Australian woman staying with us. She is a friend of another Australian client who we became very fond of when she and her husband stayed with us a few years ago.  

Sue had been planning her European adventure for a year, so we had months to anticipate her arrival. She was on her own. On one of her days with us, she requested a tour of the local area from Rick, and I went a long for the ride, as she was our only visitor that day. We took her to the northern reaches of the Perche, Bellême and La Perrière, two villages with much to recommend them. On the way we stopped by the twelfth century chapel of Saint Germain-de-la-Coudre, which has been under restoration for years. We had never seen it, although we knew of its splendid reputation. The interior is quite extraordinary, with wood paneled walls, beautiful frescoes, vaulted wooden ceiling and rustically carved beams decorated with comical gargoyles.
 
We ate lunch at a restaurant in La Perrière, a beautiful spot to spend a few leisurely hours. The stone houses are quite picturesque,



 many of which have charming cottage gardens.






After lunch we walked through the little streets and enjoyed the sights.

 The landscape is bucolic

and the architecture elegant.


The fall season brings many lovely events which I will certainly share with you here. In the meantime, if you're interested in learning how to make digital dew drops, check out this Photoshop tutorial.


Thursday, November 8, 2012

Autumn Moments


We gathered our last bouquet from the garden this week, some very spectacular dahlias and even two amazingly perfect roses. The weather has provided just about everything in equal measures, rain, cold, blue balmy days, crisp mornings, warm afternoons. It's that time of year where bird populations stop by for a day or two on their way south, and when the colors mellow and the rhythm of life changes. These moments of transition in the year are among my favorites.


Since our high season is over, we've had time to refresh the house a little. This is our guest sitting room, which I had become entirely bored with. I recovered the velvet chairs and painted the table which I posted photos of a few weeks ago. I felt that the whole space had to be much more lightened up.


The green couch had to be reupholstered too, which was a much bigger challenge than the chairs, but we did accomplish it. I also wanted to paint over the mural on the back wall, which was beginning to seem far too busy to me. We mixed up a batch of lime wash (lime, pigment, water and a bit of glue) and covered the wall. So gratifyingly easy.


I think it looks much better now, cleaner and lighter.


Next we went on to the dining room wall, which was also one of those things I felt I could no longer live with. I'm not sure what this old effect was trying to be, but it really wasn't working.


For the wall, I mixed up some of my Annie Sloan paint, (Antique White and Greek Blue). The trim is a mix of Antique White and Paris Gray. I added a little dark wax and clear wax on top after the paint had dried to age it a little. I painted some flowers in the top panels. I am much happier with this effect.


These lovely days with their swiftly changing moods, are perfect for long walks. The woods are particularly charming this time of year. I like to bring a basket when we go and gather some forest bounty: berries, pine cones, chestnuts, rose hips, leaves and even twigs. Last time we went, I collected a huge number of sticks which are stacked up on my art table waiting for their turn. I intend to use them for mobiles, sculptures, book elements.


The leaves have not yet completely fallen from the trees, but the ground is certainly covered with crackly leaves.


The family visited the weekend of Toussaint, better known as Halloween in the States. Trick or Treat is not much of a concept here in France, so Quinn has not yet learned much about how that works. Instead, he spent two days at the Pony Club riding his favorite horse Helico.


Friday, September 28, 2012

Autumn Diversion & Exertions


The weather changed dramatically this week. We had our first fires, turned on the heat and enjoyed the first real rainstorm of the new season. The virginia creeper on the house is starting to turn.

I don't know about you, but changing seasons always inspires me to change something in my physical world. Although we still do have clients on weekends, there are many week days when the house is unoccupied, and I have used this quieter time to begin a series of improvements. I have been longing to make some changes to our entry salon. The furniture there is a mixture of antiques. I've grown very tired of their darkness and formality. I wanted something fresh. My first project is to redecorate the whole room.


I started with the Louis XVI chairs. They are genuine antiques, made sometime between 1754 and 1793, just a generation after the house itself was built. I especially wanted to change the upholstery, which was very tired indeed. I also decided to paint the dark wood white.

I finally got hold of some Annie Sloan chalk paint and wax, which I've heard about from my blog friend Janet for the last several years. I found a wonderful source here in France. I've known about the shop for quite awhile, but it's just far enough away that getting there is a bit difficult. It finally dawned on me that I could mail order from them, which is what I did. This product can be purchased almost anywhere nowadays, as it is definitely a la mode, as we say over here.


I wasn't sure our skills would be up to reupholstering, but we decided to give it a go. We went to Paris and were able to find some lovely upholstery fabric right in stock at the famous Marché Saint Pierre, one of the hugest fabric stores in France. When we removed the hundreds of upholstery nails, we discovered how often these chairs have been recovered down through the years! We put some wood filler around the entire frame, to allow for our own nails to grip.



The painting process itself was the easiest part. The chalk paint goes right on, no prep necessary, which is my favorite feature. After it dried, I added clear wax and then some dark wax to bring out the decoration on the arms and legs and to give it that antique look. Once the chair was polished, the result was quite professional looking, and matched some other furniture I already had with this treatment. I used the old fabric to make my patterns and everything went together beautifully. Rick hammered on the fabric, I added the braid and voila.


I was very pleased with the results. So much lighter and more cheerful.


I used the same technique on the entry table, though I left the top natural. They go well together.


We're not sure we are content with the way the table turned out. The top is perhaps still too dark. We like the contrast, but we may whitewash it to bring it down a notch. Annie Sloan has a number of books with explicit directions, which make all these techniques quite easy to accomplish. I used the ideas in this one for my projects.


I haven't stopped there, of course. The Annie Sloan paint gets a bit addictive. What you can't really see from the photos is how nicely it polishes up after you apply the wax. It feels very good to the touch.

I intend to redo all the furniture in the entry. We bought some fabric to recover the dark green couch. That's a much bigger job. It comes last. I'm still a bit nervous about it.


The dining room is another focus of my attention. I did manage to repaint all the breakfast chairs and tables. The Annie Sloan colors are luscious. I used her Old White mixed with a bit of Paris Gray for the chairs and table in the entry and Greek Blue for the dining rooms. Only yesterday I received yet another box with four more small pots of different tints. Oh yes, I do have lots of plans and projects scheduled for the rest of the fall.


***

While in Paris to purchase our upholstery fabric, we of course visited the family, who we hadn't seen since their summer vacation in Slovenia. Zinnie has really grown. Last time I was with her in early August, she wasn't even sitting up. Now she's eating solid food by herself


and not only crawling, but seriously pulling herself up to standing whenever the opportunity arises. She looks so much like her mother at that age, that I feel as if I'm traveling back in time.
 

Her favorite things to play with are, of course, Quinn's cars and trains. She's a rolly polly jolly baby.


Quinn is a nice big brother and enjoys playing with her. He's very careful to be sure she doesn't pick up dangerous things with small parts, and when she takes something of his that he wants to play with himself, he offers her something else in exchange.


***

We had the pleasure of welcoming one of Rick's old friends from high school this week. Dick and his wife Ginger retired from their jobs as a teacher and psychotherapist ten years ago, sold their house outside New York, bought a boat and have been sailing around the world ever since. We have kept track of their adventures here, but Rick hadn't seen Dick for over 40 years. We enjoyed hearing about all their adventures. They are, of course, very skilled sailors by now. I'm mostly a landlubber, so the idea of floating out in the middle of an ocean in a small craft makes me feel a bit queasy. Yet I can certainly appreciate the fun of visiting all those ports of call, and having your own free hotel room everywhere you go. Rick grew up sailing, so he can genuinely enjoy tales of the high seas. Dick and Ginger are dropping anchor in London this winter. They tend to sail for about 7-8 months of the year and stay put for the colder months.


***
And now, perhaps randomly, a short discussion of salt. 

I grew up never thinking that there was anything remarkable about salt. When it rained, it poured and that was about the extent of my knowledge of it. I did notice that iodine was added to our Leslie salt and that my mother used it every time she cooked. I found out the iodine helped prevent goiter, which had been a problematic condition in the U.S. up until the 20s, when salt became the vehicle to alleviate this deficiency in the American diet. What I didn't know was that salt could come in so many varieties and that shaking it out of a salt shaker is not the only way to use it. In fact, these days we don't use shakers at all.

When we started coming to France we discovered fleur de sel, which is skimmed from the surface of salt evaporating ponds and is largely unprocessed. It comes in large crystals, too large to shake. It was a revelation to me at the time, and we began bringing it back as gifts to our friends, trying to share our enthusiasm for its very superior quality. We provided little crockery dishes in which to put the salt and little wooden spoons to serve it. I'm not sure anyone was nearly as impressed with all this as we were. We did notice that some fancy food stores in California sold Baleine salt at 5 times the price you can find it here in every supermarket. It is the Leslie salt of France and is processed in the same manner. The large gray salt is used here in cooking water for pasta and the like. It is essentially unrefined sea salt.

Several years ago Jos introduced us to Maldon salt, an English brand, and I was able to find it in Berkeley's gourmet ghetto. The delectable thing about it is its shape. It is a concave flake. For some time now we have used Maldon almost exclusively as our table salt. 

This year, however, we have been introduced to a couple of other varieties of British salt. It has now become a sort of battle of the salts, each new brand vying for our affections. Our friend Monica, who runs a B&B near Limoges, sent us a package of Cornish salt to try out. She swears by it. It does taste different. The only way I can find to describe it is to say it is stronger, or more salty, if such a thing is possible. 

Some Dutch friends stopped by a few weeks ago and we found ourselves again discussing salt.  Their favorite is the Welsh Halen Môn, which they tell us is the brand favored by President Obama. It comes in flavors (e.g smokey or vanilla) and also has that delicate flakey form we like so well. 

We took a taste test with all these varieties and truly they do taste different. It's hard to say what our favorite is though. We have an abundance of choice.



Monday, November 14, 2011

My Week in 32 Pictures

 dawn over Montmirail

we served 10 breakfasts this week


 blue bike outside the church

 sunny studio window

a  page from my nature journal

 the cathedral in La Ferté-Bernard

 the passageway that leads to the boulangerie in La Ferté-Bernard

 beet greens

 Mr. Crapaud

 window of the garden shed

 abandoned cabbage

 the last nasturtiums

 stocking up at the farmer's market

chine collé project step 1: paint the koschi paper with permanent ink

 chine collé project step 2: dampen the koschi paper carefully

chine collé project step 3: pose the inked plate and paper on the press bed

 chine collé project step 4: place dampened and spray-glued koschi on plate, glue up, towards paper

 chine collé project step 5: run through press

 mutabilis rose in front terrace garden on a sunny morning

 table set for Rick's birthday dinner

 a tiny snail emerges from the flower arrangement

 dogs were invited to church this week

 the local priest and his assistants get ready to say a blessing over all the dogs

 walking down our country road

farmer's gate

 seasonal colors

 a neighbor working in his garden

 local farm, ancient buildings

 empty nest

 little red pony in his green field

 Montmirail seen from across the valley
while I'm walking uphill, she's coasting down